Is Ulaanbaatar worth visiting? What to do in Mongolia’s capital – and beyond www.scmp.com
A sprawling metropolis that is home to almost half of Mongolia’s population, Ulaanbaatar is not the most tourist-friendly city in the world. Mongolia’s capital is international travellers’ first point of entry into the country before they move on to the deserts, grasslands, steppes and mountains that make the nation such a popular destination among nature lovers.
Most visitors to Mongolia are happy to spend a couple of days in town or skip the place altogether, but Ulaanbaatar still offers pockets of charm, especially in the summer months, when mild temperatures allow for leisurely walks in a place that is not necessarily pedestrian-friendly and lacks an easy-to-navigate transportation system.
Where to stay
For a city of such scale, Ulaanbaatar has surprisingly few high-end hotels. The most established and the only true luxury property is Shangri-La Ulaanbaatar, located in the heart of town and connected to Shangri-La Centre, a modern mall home to a few luxury boutiques, a great gym with an Olympic-size pool that hotel guests can access freely and plenty of eateries. Spanning 21 floors of a modern skyscraper, the hotel is popular with business travellers and tourists seeking convenience and all the trappings of a five-star property. Its well-appointed 290 guest rooms, familiar to those who have stayed at other Shangri-La properties in Asia, offer expansive views of the city’s concrete jungle and the surrounding mountains.
Eateries include Hutong Restaurant and Naadam Bar & Restaurant, which come alive at night, when seemingly every expat and tourist in town shows up to enjoy a variety of dishes and drinks in a fun, happening atmosphere.
What to eat
Heavy on the meat, Mongolian cuisine relies on the country’s traditional herding culture. Mutton, lamb, beef and goat are popular on menus, as are hearty starches like savoury pastries and dumplings.
For a great introduction to the local food, the Mongolian selection at Naadam Bar & Restaurant offers favourites such as beef or lamb tsuivan – chewy noodles with cucumber, carrot, onion and garlic – and mama’s khuushuur, deep-fried dough pastries filled with beef. More adventurous types can also order pan-fried beef liver with onion and mutton tail.
The nearby Choijin Temple Restaurant is a great option for Mediterranean dishes with a Mongolian twist. For something more exclusive, those with the right connections can book a table at Highland Park, a private members’ club located at the foot of Bogd Mountain and housed in a sleek chalet with beautiful views of the city.
What to do
Because public transport is limited, the best way to explore Ulaanbaatar is to book a guided visit with operators such as Gobi Tours. They offer options ranging from day-long group tours to private, tailored visits that cover key sites in town and natural attractions on its outskirts. Ulaanbaatar is home to many Buddhist temples. If you only have time to go to one, the Choijin Lama Temple is very centrally located near the city’s main gathering spot, Sükhbaatar Square.
Fans of Genghis Khan should check out the Chinggis Khaan National Museum, situated just off the square, and the Chinggis Khaan Statue Complex, the world’s biggest equestrian statue, which is a relatively short drive from the centre of town, depending on traffic. History buffs should also visit Bogd Khaan Palace Museum, an imperial residence known as “the winter palace of the Bogd Khaan”, a Mongolian king.
Outdoorsy types have plenty to see and do in Gorkhi Terelj National Park, home to the very Instagrammable Turtle Rock and one of the country’s most beautiful temple complexes, Aryapala Temple, a Tibetan-style meditation retreat shaped like an elephant in a valley surrounded by mountains.
Terelj offers activities such as horse or camel riding and falconry. A bit further from town but also worth exploring, Hustai National Park is a wonderful protected area, where you can admire Mongolia’s Przewalski’s horses (takhi) in the wild.
Where to shop
Cashmere is to Mongolia what maple syrup is to Canada, so to speak. The country is home to goats whose hair produces prized yarns from luxury brands such as Loro Piana.
For something more affordable, you should check out Gobi Cashmere, which has plenty of branches in the city. At its two-storey boutique on Sükhbaatar Square, you can find basics such as crew neck or turtleneck sweaters and cosy blankets. Surprisingly, the brand also makes very cool cashmere shoes such as slip-ons and sneakers that may not be super practical in rainy weather but are fashionable and chic.
Peace Avenue, one of the city’s main thoroughfares, is home to many souvenir shops selling everything from gold trinkets to sheep-shaped charms, as well as landmark destinations like the State Department Store. The mall, which isn’t actually state-owned, houses many international and local brands, including a branch of Michel Amazonka, one of the country’s top fashion labels. The brand famously designed uniforms for Mongolian athletes for the 2024 Paris Olympics, which drew a lot of attention on social media.
If you’d like to bring back traditional food, you can’t go wrong with pine nuts from HushKhan. The ubiquitous chain makes hand-picked natural pine nuts and organic pine nut kernels, and also sells pine nut-derived products like pine nut oil, which you can use for cooking or drizzle over salads.
Further afield
If you decide to extend your trip, Mongolia offers extraordinary environmental diversity and unique experiences.
Venturing beyond Ulaanbaatar and its immediate surroundings is an expedition in every sense of the word. Booking such excursions with a reputable provider is essential. Outside major hubs, much of the country lacks paved highways, public transport and cellular infrastructure – making independent travel dangerous and logistically impractical.
These guided itineraries span a wide spectrum of comfort. Upscale operators offer well-appointed tourist camps with modern creature comforts and transport in luxury SUVs. On the rugged end, immersive homestays welcome you into traditional gers alongside nomadic host families – facilities here are basic, but the hospitality is warm and the experience delightfully authentic.
Owing to Mongolia’s vastness, most travellers focus on a single region per trip. The central belt around Ulaanbaatar is lush, with rolling green steppes, roaming herds of livestock and smooth paved routes offering relatively easier access to ancient ruins.
The north and west are a realm of jagged peaks above pristine alpine lakes, traditional eagle hunters and noticeably cooler climes even in peak summer.
But it is the southern Gobi – often imagined as a boundless, endless expanse – that delivers Mongolia’s most dramatic variations. Beyond its famed sand dunes lie rich subregions featuring dramatic canyon walls, dinosaur fossil beds and otherworldly rock formations. The immense distances and complete absence of paved roads make for a profound escape from civilisation.
Whichever direction you choose, Mongolia offers rare encounters with untouched terrain and unforgettable journeys.
BY Vincenzo La Torre
Vincenzo La Torre
Formerly the fashion editor of the South China Morning Post, Vincenzo La Torre is the chief editor of Style, the South China Morning Post’s luxury monthly publication. Born and raised in Italy, Vincenzo started his career in journalism after graduating from Columbia University in New York, where he studied East Asian Languages and Cultures with a focus on Japanese and Chinese art. He has previously worked for Vogue Japan in Tokyo, Harper's Bazaar in Singapore and Prestige in Hong Kong. Before joining the Post as fashion editor in 2017, Vincenzo was a member of the launch team of Vogue Arabia in Dubai. He covers topics such as jewellery, watches, luxury, beauty, celebrity, entertainment and lifestyle, and has interviewed some of the most influential designers and CEOs in the luxury industry. Vincenzo speaks Italian, French, Japanese and Mandarin, and is a regular at high-profile events such as fashion week in Milan and Paris.
Published Date:2026-08-30





